With the aux pump on for the 20 seconds, it fills the engine pump as well as the lines and the carb, plus knocking out any vapor lock. With a hot engine re-start I turn on the electric pump, wait about 20 seconds, VERY GENTLY push the gas pedal about 1/2 way down and push the start button. Peculation of the the fuel leaves the lines empty, the engine fuel pump/ carb are probably low on fuel and you probably could have a vapor lock in the engine pump. As you probably have seen after shutting off the engine after a hot run, the fuel is boiling in the lines and the fuel pump. I also use the electric pump to start a hot car. I use the electric pump when I have a vapor lock while driving. To fill the lines,engine pump and carb after the car has been setting many days since the last start. I use my electric aux fuel pump for 3 things. Hi Fred: Here is one idea which might help you get started again after the 346 has been shut off after a hot run. Of course that would mean adding a return port to the fuel tank. An example is a Fram G3587: Installed between the fuel pump and carburetor, this would allow cooler fuel to continue to circulate through the fuel line and fuel pump. There is an in-line fuel filter with a 3rd port to allow a portion of the fuel to return to the fuel tank. Has anyone tried this? Does it work? What ratio should be used?ģ. I have heard of people adding a small amount of kerosene or diesel fuel to gasoline to reduce its volatility. I suspect the ’32 V8 has a similar carburetor heating arrangement.Ģ. So can this exhaust passage be blocked to reduce heat going to the carburetor? One way to block the passage could be to use a thin metal plate on each end of the passage where the intake manifold bolts to the block. Today's fuels vaporize easily without assistance. I assume this was included to provide heat under the carburetor to help vaporize the low quality fuels available back then. I believe the 1937-48 flat head V8’s have exhaust crossover passage in the INTAKE manifold that runs under the carburetor. Some thoughts and questions about vapor lock:ġ. The original metal air filter is also a way to gather heat, beside poor air filtration I use the K&N filters in all my cars, they have so many shapes which fits any car. The intake is separated from the exhaust and the carb neck is short. That should be sufficient as the percolation is not that big of an issue on these engines. I could smell the gasoline before the engine would quit.ġ) draw cool air from the bottom - this had by far the greatest impact on reducing percolationĢ) wrap the fuel lines, fuel pump and carb in heat reflecting material.ģ) Place a phenolic spacer between the carb and intake - not much space in there but every step helpsĪlso, another thing to keep in mind: high octane gasoline does boil at lower temp than low octane, and winter/summer gasoline formulation does change quite a bit my problems were worse in winter (lighter gasoline).įor the 346, just wrap the header behind the carb and the fuel line from the pump to the carb, maybe the pump as well. My 1932 car engine did stop a few times in traffic, at low RPM so I had to take some drastic measures to avoid blocking everyone for the next 30 minutes. Gasoline in the early 30's must have been very heavy stuff to require such a setup. The 355B carb has a very long neck so that hot air from the fan and engine bay will heat it up over time. The 355B intake is mated to the exhaust headers, and in the middle of it, with hot air blowing from the fan right into the carb and filter as a bonus. The goal is to bring the gasoline temperature down.
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